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Happy Memorial Day!

There's a little thigh to waist high wave out there. More importantly there's a shit ton of people out there. The beach is packed and the line up is speckled with surfers and speed bumps(swimmers). Have fun and be safe... Oh and cook some meat outside.

Summer @ the smallest wave in town.

Today was another knee high day. My friend from work came out with me today and chipped a tooth learning to surf! Crazy, he caught the board in the mouth and knocked out a filling while breaking the tooth in half!
Awesome video of 3 great surfers Josh Kerr, Chris Ward, and Mason Ho!
Kerrazy Times - Carribean from SURFING Magazine on Vimeo.

Yesterdays small session

It's running about shin to thigh here lately. I've gotten a few in the waist high on me. Took the new board out and got a few shore breaks. All and all small but fun. Makes me think about how important a grovel board is in a quiver.

Freesurf from the contest in Rio


freesurf rio surf pro from marcio dja on Vimeo.

Check out this video from Rio.  Awesome freesurf session.  Wish I could kill it like that, I also wish we had some beach break like that around here.

Visit from Matt

This pic should be a PSA(public service anouncement) for sunblock. My buddy Matt was in town and we went for a surf. Matt's still got it, he jumped right on my 5'5" fish and was going left and right. He hasn't surfed in about 8yrs but was killing it! You can probably tell from the pic he hasen't been in the sun for about eight years either! Just a reminder to wear sunblock or (like myself) wear a shirt if you paddle out!

Lots of pic today

Well today was pretty fun. Lots of stomach high on me. There was the occational shoulder (i'm 5'7). Really fat and super sloppy when I started. Cleaned up a bit with the wind backing off. The tides come in a bit so its even softer now. I'd call for a mod fish if your gonna hit it. As you can see from the pic of the boot of the SUV I chose the shortboard and had trouble getting into a couple. Although those new AM2 fins I just got have some amazing drive.

What a difference

What a difference a day can make. Sorry the pics look so bad. You probably can't tell but these waves are probably chest high or shoulder on me. The bigger sets are any ways. Its saying 2-3+ on surfline so its looking good. Reminds me of Socal waves. You know how LA runs pretty much between 2-4 consistently. As you can tell from the pics there's not to many good walls. Mostly closeout or a lot of fat waves with big sections to make it around. All in all a fun day. We should have waves this size all week! Breakout your shortboard and throw on some fins with a lot of drive.

Not much on tap

Not much on tap for surf, but I still got a beer. Its a beautiful day down here at the beach. One guy out on a log. He's not catching much during high tide. Maybe later I'll take my wife's funboard for a spin. My friend's bring a boogie board later, that might be embarrassing.

Nike Lower's 6.0 heat of the day!

unbelievable round in the Nike Lower's 6.0 comp yesterday.  For all who didn't see it here's a video of two of my favorite surfers killing it in their heat against one another.  Dusty Payne Vs. Kalohe Andino.  Super High performance surfing.  Great Airs and carving by both Kalohe and Dusty.

No waves

I thought yesterday was bad. This is a beautiful day at the beach but leave your boards at home. All you need are a sixpack and some sunglasses. Maybe a Standup paddle board would work if I had one.


Can you believe this. That is some awesome street art. Total gorilla style posing as construction workers! I hope they keep it!

It summer!

So todays surf report... Typical summer wave out there. Looks like its light on shore winds coming ESE at about 5 with gust of about 10 at most. As you can see from the pics the waves look about shoulder to waist high when you're waist deep in water! I took the fish out today and got to a couple shoulders but its a weak little wave out there.